In a previous blog I mentioned that we often visit places
that we quickly learn to love. Never
having sufficient time, we leave with a determination to return – and yet
seldom do. Occasionally, however, we do go
back. Such was our trip to Nova Scotia
and Atlantic Canada –my third trip there and the second one for Karen and me
together – but definitely one with some new twists, new experiences and new
terrain. When I first visited Nova
Scotia in (I believe) 1990, I was impressed by the wildflowers, the French and
British history, its lush and verdant country sides, and the rugged and
spectacular coastlines, which spoke of a maritime history and boasted of one of
the premier drives in North America – the Cape Breton highway.
On this trip, we enjoyed some of the
beautiful coast and sleepy fishing villages again, we got better acquainted
with the provincial capital of Halifax and, of course, we ran a half-marathon –
which was the impetus for the trip and our third Canadian Province. The race was in Halifax – the Bluenose
Marathon and Half-Marathon. We quite
enjoyed it. The route started at the
impressive citadel in the city center, went through hospital and university
areas, some older residential areas and then along the water’s edge to a park
on the southern peninsula which reached into the Bay and the Atlantic
beyond. It was a very pretty park –
although also the area where the route was most difficult as we ran a couple of
trails that ascended some pretty steep hills.
However, we were rewarded with some great views and a very impressive
residential area before finishing the race back near the Citadel.
The race was well-supported, there were
decent crowds along the way, the weather was cooperative and the race expo was
good – at least after we finally found it!
Initially, we couldn’t find it when we went to pick up race packets and
since it was raining steadily, we weren’t thrilled to be looking all over for
it. Signs were not posted, people
weren’t seen coming and going with the trademark race bags, and none of the
civic center entrances appeared to be open.
Eventually, we found it through a virtually unmarked basement door, but
it was an inauspicious beginning.
Fortunately, once inside it was dry and warm with some interesting
vendors. On race day, the weather was
much better and the pace was great!
Since we were going to be running another race a week later, I wasn’t
sure I wanted to try and run both races at maximum tempo, so I decided I would
run Boston hard and run with Karen in Halifax.
Karen was skeptical it would end well (since she doesn’t like to feel
pushed), but we actually ran the entire race together and managed to finish
still friends! I don’t remember much
about the post-race food – so it must not have been overly memorable – but the
race (and the company) was good.
The most memorable part of the trip was the new experience in
an area none of us had ever visited, namely Newfoundland. After the race, we spent a couple of hours in
the very picturesque area of Peggy’s Cove and then headed east for the 4-5 hour
drive to Sydney on the eastern shore of Nova Scotia.
We caught an overnight ferry and landed in
Channel Port aux Basques, Newfoundland the next morning. The next four days we explored a tiny fraction of a very beautiful place, as we traversed the southwestern section of the island.
The scenery was stunning. The mountains were unique, the coastlines rugged, the geology fantastic, the waterfalls plentiful and impressive, the fjords beautiful and the lakes and forests picturesque and vast. We had some great hiking to waterfalls, lakes, the coast and a peak - particularly enjoying our two days in Gros Morne National Park.
As it turns
out, we visited a bit early in the season so weren’t able to do the hike to the
top of Gros Morne Mountain or take the boat ride into the Western Brook Pond
(Fjord), but just the views were well
worth it. I’ve sailed in the Norwegian
and New Zealand fjords – and these were not far behind in their stunning
beauty. However, they were also
different – and this speaks of the area geology. Whereas you picture fjords as going inland
from the ocean, in Newfoundland they were INLAND fjords, with a river flowing
out of the fjord to the ocean.
Similarly, the mountains were sort of upside down from how you would
normally picture them – to include some areas where the visible rock on the
surface is the type of rock you would normally expect to find thousands of feet
down into the earth. They had a
different feel and look.
These were not
the jagged peaks of the Tetons, but rather the uplifted escarpments. We were really torn in our visit between
wanting to spend time in the mountains and along the coast – and exploring the
Viking sites and iceberg alleys further north.
As it turns out, we decided to travel less and see more of a smaller
area. We don’t regret that decision –
but it has put another location on our list of places we really want to return
All in all, it was another great trip – with a race thrown in
to justify it! We enjoyed meeting new
people and found them universally friendly – albeit with a brogue that was a
bit difficult to understand at times!
So, if you aren’t completely certain where Newfoundland is, pull out
your atlas and trace a line east and a bit north of Maine (we were actually
only about as far north as Vancouver BC, although much more remote). Mark the spot and we suggest you consider it
for inclusion in your travel bucket list.
You won’t be disappointed – and there are some great things to see and
do in Nova Scotia while you are getting there.
Father of five; husband of one! Grandfather of twelve. Twenty-five years of commissioned military service, then nine years working on a government contract to destroy a portion of the nation's chemical weapons and munitions stockpile. Have lived in Europe eight years, on both coasts of the US and several places in between. After running our second half-marathon together in March 2007, Karen and I decided we enjoyed it and the associated travel enough to set out on a quest to run a half-marathon in all 50 states. We completed the quest in January 2012 in Hawaii - with the entire family there and many participating with us. We've now also completed running a half-marathon together in each of the 10 Canadian Provinces. Like to run and it often gives me time to think - and some of those thoughts need a sounding board or just might be worth sharing.
Recently hired to be the Orchestra Teacher at Timpanogos HS in Orem UT. Looking forward to starting in Aug 2014.