As the afternoon waned, we turned off the scenic Quebec Highway that had been taking us north and east along the St. Lawrence Seaway. We were looking for Quebec Highway 389. A minute later we saw the sign and turned left again onto the Trans-Labrador Highway. A simple signpost noted our destination: Happy Valley-Goose Bay, 1100 Km. For the rest of the evening, the following day and three hours on the day thereafter, we traversed as vast and remote a wilderness as I may have seen (excepting possibly portions of Alaska).
The road took us north through
Quebec for some 550 km, before heading east to enter Labrador where another 550
km awaited us before reaching the heartland of the Big Land at Happy
Valley-Goose Bay, home to about 7000 of the 27,000 people living in Labrador -
an area slightly larger than the state of Colorado. Needless to say, people, and
signs of civilization were not necessarily common along the drive (only two legitimate communities in 1100 KM, plus several dams with hydroelectric plants and a large mining operation) - whereas
vast tracts of boreal forests, lakes, peat bogs, ponds, rivers, and hills were
- with horizons that seemed to stretch endlessly in every direction. And lest you think these areas are linked by
the equivalent of interstate highway, let me dispel that notion.
At best, perhaps a third of the highway was
paved - the rest was dirt or gravel - and most of it followed the path of least
resistance - meaning up and down, around hills, skirting lakes and rivers, and
when straight, definitely not level.
However, it proved to be a memorable, no doubt, once in a lifetime drive
(except that we had to drive it a second time on a return trip!) And it brought us to our destination - the
Canadian Province of Newfoundland/Labrador and the Trapline Marathon and
|N thru Quebec to Labrador|
The race proved to be as memorable as the drive. We had been looking forward to this adventure for a year or more and it did not disappoint. The people extended a warm welcome like none that we have ever received. (We were featured in the race brochure; recognized at the pre-race meet and greet and the post-race banquet; and were interviewed by Labrador radio!) The race director and staff that we met were genuinely friendly, helpful and gracious hosts - and we felt like family.
race also proved to be a good one. We
had been somewhat worried about the weather - having (erroneously) read about
snow off and on for the past week or so, not to mention temperatures WELL below
freezing. Although we did travel through
a snow storm, replete with a road full of snow and mud our second night, the
weather in Happy Valley-Goose Bay cooperated during the race. It was cool, overcast, humid and breezy -
which equates to nearly ideal running weather.
The course was also scenic as it went along the only section of road to
the north of Goose Bay. We ran through
very pretty fall foliage, with the lake and bay often along the road and
mountains across the water. There were a
few undulations, but nothing overly serious.
Admittedly, there were VERY few spectators along the route - but there
weren't that many runners, either, with 12 finishers in the full marathon, 64
in the half, and perhaps twice that in the 10K.
The finish line was great.
Post-race festivities featured the "trappers' environment"
with trappers' tents, gear and authentic, local foods such as caribou stew and
salmon. There were also muffins with
local berries and really good entertainment from a Labradorian singer. Since the race was held during the Canadian
Thanksgiving weekend, there was a nice banquet that night at the Legion Hall,
with a good meal, excellent remarks, recognition of winners (to include my
first place among runners over 50) and drawings for various prizes - with Karen
winning a great basket of running stuff and clothing, a book, DVD and a
backpack - which was in addition to the Trapline sweatshirt and winter cap we
received for having traveled the farthest to participate in the event. As races -
and trips go - this will definitely be among our favorites. Unfortunately, we didn't have the time to
explore the area as we would have liked, but we have learned to live with that
reality and the list it creates of locations that beckon us to return. However, we are experiencing a second reality
concerning that list - it only seems to get longer - and that brings me to the
"thoughtful" section of this narrative. As much as I would like to, it is often hard
to return. There may be a myriad of
reasons - time, resources, remoteness, circumstances, health, other priorities
and things still waiting to be checked off the first time. Whatever the combination of reasons,
returning is never a foregone conclusion.
Enjoy the moment! That counsel is
certainly not original - but nonetheless wisdom I may finally be learning. There is always more to do than we manage to
get done. There is always more to see
that we can possibly see. There is
always something new that we want to experience. In all that doing, I think we often miss the
roses right in front of us. Let's not
fail to notice them. Smell the roses -
wherever you are and whatever you may be doing!
Enjoy the run!
We enjoyed Labrador - and the wonderful people we met there. It reinforced what we have certainly experienced almost anywhere we have run; every place has something unique, something special and something worthwhile to offer. We may never get back to Labrador - bur for a few days in October, 2011, it was a splendid place to be.